Procrastination pays off!

At present, I am extremely satisfied with the University of Concepción. Specifically, the department of geography (or history, or pedagogy, or whatever department my geography class is in…), because they have decided to not have classes tomorrow. They’re currently on strike. I am not sure why. Before coming to Chile, I had heard stories about University strikes where no one goes to class (students or professors), where students who try to go to class can run into problems, where foreign students like me don’t want to be around the University even to observe for risk of getting arrested (which is complicated), etc. Although there have been a number of days in which class has been canceled due to strike, there have not been any violent incidents, at least to my knowledge. This is nice (also nice: the professors tell the students that the class is canceled before class time, which is not true at all schools). The strikes so far have been of specific departments, not the entire University; maybe this is why things are more peaceful?

Anyway, after eating lunch today, I had to make a quick decision: go to the movies with a few friends, or stay home to write an essay (which is due tomorrow)? I chose movie, while spontaneously kicking myself and thinking about how late I would be awake researching and writing about the liberal parliament that led to the dawn of capitalism in Chile…but I’m sure all of you can see the happy ending to this story: Class is canceled! Essay is not due!

In other good news, I had a very busy and enjoyable weekend. On Friday night, there was a surprise birthday party planned for twins from church. Therefore, a group of us boarded a micro after church (stealthily, of course) to get to their house. The polola (girlfriend) of one of the twins had planned the party, and the house was decorated with streamers and balloons when we arrived. After the surprise, we ate a meal together (fajitas! with avocado! mmm…), played some games, chatted, etc. It was fun. The complicated part was getting everyone home. Friday, as everyone in the US was well aware, was September 11. This is not only a big date for the US, however; it also has huge historical significance for Chile. On September 11, 1973, there was a military takeover of the Chilean government, which had previously been under control of President Salvador Allende. Allende died in the coup (today it is believed that he committed suicide shortly before La Moneda (the Chilean equivalent of the White House, as I understand it) was taken over). The coup resulted not just in Allende’s death, but also in a seventeen-year-long military dictatorship led by Augusto Pinochet, Commander in Chief of the Chilean army. Thoughts on this period of Chilean history are varied, and since 1973 was not too long ago (36 years) and the dictatorship came with its fair share of political crimes and disappearances, it is a tricky subject. Anyway, September 11 tends to be a day of demonstrations, increased delinquency, and general bad news in Chile, especially in the central parts of the cities, and of course, near the universities. I live about a block and a half from the University of Conce, and I heard upon arriving at church that there were problems in the area…therefore, when a friend was driving me home around 2 AM, I was slightly worried, but it was completely quiet. Guess the protesters and/or delinquents-looking-for-excuses-to-make-trouble had their fix.

Group of friends walking to the surprise!

On Saturday, Paulo and I met up to go to Chillán, a city about an hour and a half from Conce, which is known for its market, as well as its ski hills (although to get to those you’ve got to travel another hour by bus). Paulo had never been to Chillán before, so it was a new adventure for both of us. After our bus ride (note: riding the bus is fun in Chile—their countryside is beautiful! I tried taking photos out of bus windows, but was not greatly successful) we explored the markets, saw a cathedral (very touristy), and ate lunch before heading back.

This is the cathedral. It’s quite famous. It was built after an earthquake devastated Chillán, and there are eleven earthquake-proof arches as part of its design. I did not take this picture; photo credits go to someone from my google search.

This is the market, or one of them, at least. It was completely filled with meat and patriotic decorations (the Fiestas Patrias (‘Patriotic Festivals’? Basically, like 4th of July in the US, but much more thoroughly-celebrated) are next week, and Chile’s colors are red, white, and blue). There are also a lot of little places to eat in the market. As we walked around, about a hundred ladies called out to us “Almorzar?” “Almorzar?” “Senorita, ven aquí” “Tengo pastel de choclo, cazuelas, carnes..” etc (translations: “Eat lunch?” “Young lady, come here (to see menu)” “I have x, y, z (menu items)”). It was funny. Some of them would try to slow us up to speak to us about their menu offerings, others gave us business cards… Eventually we did decide to eat lunch, and returned to a restaurant where the owner had spoken to us somewhat extensively about all her different offerings for the day. During our meal of ribs (Fresh ones! Note all the meat in this market. In picture number two, see the entire sides of some animal hanging on the wall? Some booths offered entire pig heads and feet…), salad, and bread, we noticed that although the ladies are very competitive for customers, sometimes to the point of fighting over potential takers, they are very amiable with one another—they even share ingredients when one runs out of something!

We finished our day at the other market, which has lots of produce and artisan products. There were mountains of kiwi, lettuce, dried fruits, nuts, etc. It was glorious. I bought a kilo of apples for less than 40 cents. Note: this kilo contained just three apples, because they were the biggest ones I have ever seen in my life. There was also a slightly funny aspect to this market, in that a lot of the products from booth to booth (speaking of artisan things now) were the same. This led me to ask Paulo, “China or Chile?” when considering a purchase. Apparently, Chile’s markets are succumbing to the perils of cheap production as well as ours. Nevertheless, there were a lot of Chilean-made things there also. Leather, copper, and wool were well represented in a range of belts, bags, hats, coasters, plaques, change purses, dolls, ponchos…there was a lot to see!

Anyway, class or no class, it’s time for bed in Concepción. I have now lived here for six full weeks, and have managed to survive without…never mind. I was going to think of a list of funny but bad things that I’ve managed to avoid, but then realized they would probably all happen tomorrow. Basically, all’s well.

Cheers to the coming week of little class, excessive empanada-eating, and Chilean patriotism!

Love,
Tiernan